Edit By Ellie

DB Berdan was founded in Istanbul and is for anyone that who enjoys bold statements, vivid colours and sarcastic humour. This quirky brand uses their prints to tell a story and explore their visions surrounding social rights movements. Inspiration taken from street and underground culture demonstrates influences from their London surroundings. These visions and ideologies are displayed through their use of slogan prints and illustrations that can be found throughout their collections.

DB Berdan has consistently supported the LGBTQ community and this season they’ve “made them move to the runway and to take a stand”. This year the brand also collaborated with Reebok to take a powerful political stand against Boris Johnson’s ‘women who wear burkas are bank robbers’ comment, whist still supporting the LGBTQ movement.

Their electric colour palette that featured deconstructed hi-vis jackets with matching neon tracksuit trousers featuring ruched detailing and drawstrings elevated the sports-luxe look. One of the designers spoke about the Reebok garments, “they’ve actually brought us pre-made clothes and we’ve reconstructed and deconstructed them so that pants are sleeves”.

Metallic platform heels paired with holed Reebok sports socks with 90’s inspired grungy hairstyles featuring silver hair clips and pins alluded the rebellious style the brand incorporates.

Photography by Catherine Baker

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FJU is an annual platform featuring designers from Taiwan. Fu Jen Catholic University’s Textiles and Clothing department sponsors the showcase that supports up and coming designers. Today we saw collections from Ming Jo Hsieh, Kai Ting Chen and Yi Hsuan Wang.

First to show was Hsieh’s collection. Influences of social issues and art within fashion were apparent as loud commercial-style prints created a collage effect on the oversized garments. Non-form silhouettes and unique draping techniques alluded a street-inspired collection that challenged the traditional definitions of beauty.

Struggles of war as inspired by the film “City of Life and Death” focusing on the war Nan-King in 1937 created a foundation to newspaper-print garments in Kai Ting Chen’s collection. Deconstructed military uniforms layered underneath plastic textiles demonstrated more draping practices and pattern making as the music drummed louder and the models paced faster down the runway, illustrating the intensity of the collection.

Yi Hsuan Wang presented an equally as adventurous collection featuring abstract three-dimensional shapes moulded onto dresses with dashes of red and tulle accents. Wang aimed to ‘show everyone their Taiwanese culture’, and blends ‘influences of his childhood with new construction techniques’ through his twist on the traditional facial totem that can be seen throughout his SS19 collection.

FJU is a leading Fashion and Design institute that was founded in 1970. The University aims to equip students with many essential design skills whilst implementing a holistic education. They hope to guide students to develop as individuals and ensure professional progress. Designers to showcase their work are chosen by industry experts and mentored to encapsulate their vision.

Photography by Catherine Baker

http://fashionscout.co.uk/news/

Saini Chan and Sophie Hun are guiding a new generation of designers through Lunyee Studio. As graduates from the London College of Fashion, they work with their team of skilled young people to bring a visual communication aspect to each collection which features both menswear and womenswear.

For SS19 the rising designers showcase features a huge variety of styles and techniques within the collection. Slouched silhouettes and layered garments paired with metallic chain detailing demonstrated a contrasting mix of rebellion with non-form fitting street inspired pieces. Neutral tones were apparent throughout the show with deconstructed denim pieces added to the already experimental looks. Sleek and modern garments challenged gender norms and androgynous styles enhanced the vast use of textiles. Leather jackets worked well alongside PVC bucket bag layered in chains and silver hard ware, whilst delicate embroidery displayed the talents of the LCF graduates.

 

Asian conical hats made from woven textiles embellished with chains alluded the variety between the traditional aspects of the collection with a flair of nonconformity.

Saini and Sophie aim to display the rise in fashion enthusiasm in Shenzhen, China. By utilising their design and textile techniques they express their unique aesthetic. The garments that are constructed feature natural fibres in fabric and demonstrate their vision through asymmetric silhouettes and sophisticated structures. These reiterate the modernity and edge that is the foundation of the contemporary designs and the teams they work with.

Photography by Erefua Boakye

http://fashionscout.co.uk/news/

 

We watched the first INIFD LST show this morning, so it was exciting to see a second show of amazing talent. “A Journey Beyond” paid homage to traditional design ideas and textiles. Light-weight linen and cotton fabrics created a simple base for extensive detail.

Asymmetrical cuts and non-form silhouettes alluded the creative flare that runs throughout the designs, golden thread and jewelled embellishments elevated many of the looks. We spoke to one of the designers who incorporated her love of animals into her love of using cotton. When asked if there were any challenges in particular in creating her giraffe motif collection she told us that whilst their designs are fuelled by artist flare they need “to keep in mind the cliental, it has to sell, and it has to make a business”.

We also saw an array of brocade garments, patchwork textiles with a mix of structured pieces to mid-length flowing skirts. Large hoop earrings with long fringing detail added an extra element, alongside the tribal-inspired make-up. The traditional Asian aspects continued as we watched an exploration through the garment selection with a blush pink kimono style dress that glided down the catwalk.

London School of Trends is leading the way through shaping the careers of new talented designers. The school hopes to nurture their students so they can find their own style and reach their design potentials. With over 20 years of experience within the industry and close links to global institutions like INIFD in Asia, they are able to provide a personalised learning experience.

 Photography by Erefua Boakye

http://fashionscout.co.uk/news/