LONDON FASHION WEEK TREND REPORT SS19

Fashion month is well underway and after analysing some of the remarkable collections shown at a rainy New York Fashion Week, watching the looks to come out at London as well as street style spotting, we have complied a breakdown of some of the SS19 trends that could make their way into your wardrobe next season.

NEON BRIGHTS

Vivid pinks, highlighter yellows and brilliant greens illuminated NYFW for SS19. Next season, expect a bolder colour palette as opposed to the usual pastel hues that dominate the warmer seasons. Brandon Maxwell’s selection of bright pink looks paired with his trend-forward Perspex bags showed at New York. Whilst back in London, Henry Holland featured tangerine orange tones on oversized blazers styled with wet-look hair as his collection, “Pull in Emergency”, brought forward his girl-on-the-go muse. Invest in bright, statement pieces and style with neutral tones with minimal accessorising to easily weave in this bold Spring/Summer trend.

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RUFFLES

Operating alongside the blush pink hues of SS19, ruching and ruffles took to fashion week elevating feminine silhouettes. Marc Jacob’s fashionably late show exhibited oversized rosette shapes and ruffled tulle accents constructed around the jawline and on dazzling mid-length dresses. As inspired by Molly Goddard’s ready-to-wear collection, experiment with floral prints with ruffle detailing to add more dimension to your outfit or merge with more androgynous silhouettes to create a chic, modern style.

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MASCULINE TAILORING

Padded shoulders that reinforce masculine silhouettes on oversized blazers and coats have been sighted throughout fashion week shows so far. Ruffle embellishments create a refreshing contrast to the structured and more masculine shapes that took to the runway. An assortment of sharp-cut lapels seen on longline blazers were spotted on many Fashion Scout attendees, one was photographed wearing a yellow and black check, shoulder padded blazer, belted around the waist. Try to style a structured blazer with other lengths to add more dimension and stray away from a less uniformed look.

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FRINGING

Bohemian style fringe has elevated many of the looks spotted across fashion weeks so far. At NYFW we saw Monse’s long tassels falling from miniskirts in bold red and white colourways and Raf Simon’s collection for Calvin Klein which featured long tasselling from black knitted jumpers. It has been suggested that these were representing the current state of America and the disarray that encompasses the nation at this time. With endless opportunities of detailed garments adored in fringing, try something different and switch fringed jackets for knitwear or tasselled accessories.

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Images from Fashion Scout and Vogue

Originally published on Fashion Scout

DESIGNERS PIONEERING SUSTAINABILITY AT FASHION SCOUT SS19

With society consuming fashion at an extreme rate leading to detrimental environmental and social impacts, it was refreshing to see such emphasis on sustainability this season. Compared to 2002, the average person now buys 60% more clothing and keeps them for half as long, with many embellishments and textiles being non-recyclable, it is encouraging to see up-and-coming and well-established designers paving the way for the future.

THIS SEASON AT FASHION SCOUT WE SAW DESIGNERS, NOUS ETUDIONS, THE SWEDISH SCHOOL OF TEXTILES AND JIRI KALFAR AMONGST OTHERS THAT ALTERED THEIR APPROACH, ADOPTING A SUSTAINABLE WAY OF DESIGNING TO COMBAT THEIR CONTRIBUTION TO POLLUTING THE ENVIRONMENT. THIS SEASON, VEGAN ARGENTINE BRAND NOUS ETUDIONS, WERE AWARDED OUR SS19 ‘ONES TO WATCH’ ACCOLADE. DESIGNER, ROMINA CARDILLO’S SS19 COLLECTION “CREATURES OF THE UNIVERSE”, WAS INSPIRED BY “NATURE, SHAPES AND TEXTURES”. OTHER DESIGNERS SUCH AS JIRI KALFAR OPTED FOR UP-CYCLED SEQUINS MADE FROM UNWANTED CLOTHES AND BIODEGRADABLE SHOES. THE DESIGNER STATED “THE FASHION WORLD IS CHANGING AND IF THE SMALL DESIGNERS DON’T SPEAK OUT, THEN THE BIG ONES WON’T FOLLOW. IT’S IMPORTANT – LEAD BY EXAMPLE.”

Just in the UK, the domestic market value of the fashion industry is £66 billion, with companies such as; Burberry, Marks and Spencer, Next and ASOS all making a huge contribution to this figure. Just in July of this year it was revealed that Burberry had been burning unsold stock worth up to $28.6 million. Alongside this hidden but common practice, issues such as excessive water-usage, poor working conditions, non-recyclable textiles and the use of animal products within clothing have all been bought to light over recent years.

 “THE FASHION INDUSTRY IS A DIRTY INDUSTRY AND I THINK IT’S IMPORTANT TO START GETTING THE WORD ACROSS BECAUSE THEN PEOPLE GET IT. I’VE SEEN ACTUALLY A LOT OF BIG BRANDS CHANGING THEIR POLICY ON SUSTAINABILITY AND I THINK IT’S BECAUSE THE FASHION WORLD IS CHANGING AND IF THE SMALL DESIGNERS DON’T SPEAK OUT, THEN THE BIG ONES WON’T FOLLOW. IT’S IMPORTANT. AT LEAST LEAD BY EXAMPLE.”

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The increase in fast fashion brands and the throw-away attitude that many people have adopted in this consumer-led society, has meant that extreme measures are being put in place to control this “incredibly wasteful and harmful to the environment” industry, as mentioned by Stella McCartney. The ethics-focused designer, Stella McCartney has consistently led the way for other designer brands to follow her sustainable attributes. She has been creating “sustainable luxury fashion” for nearly 20 years and her brand is part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Ethical Trading Initiative and regularly partners with PETA. Recently, McCartney collaborated again with Adidas to create her own vegan Stan Smith trainers, renewing such an iconic shoe and moving it forward, will be encouraging for other brands as the demand for more environmental and animal friendly fashion increases.

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Backstage at Nous Etudions for SS19, Photography by Rory James

 

Organisations such as the Copenhagen Fashion Summit and Drapers’ new Sustainable Fashion event are bringing together designers, businesses and consumers to create solutions to these overwhelming problems to ensure this profound industry moves forward correctly. As a consumer, you may want to think about investing in one better quality and ethically produced item as opposed to many fast-fashion pieces that you discard after wearing it just a handful of times. The app and website “Good on You” can help you discover which brands are more sustainable and find ones you had never heard of. Everyone is responsible, everyone can make a difference, and we’re pleased to provide a platform to elevate those that are paving way.

FAD | FASHION SCOUT SS19

FAD is an organisation that aims to help young creatives build a sustainable design career no matter their background. The charity wants to break the boundaries and stereotypes that still exist within the fashion industry. FAD also works closely with the industry to campaign for diversity, fair access and better representation which in turn, has given so many people a platform to showcase their work. Ethnic background, financial situation and personal circumstances are entirely disregarded as they continue to support a whole range of creatives. Their flagship project, Fashion Futures, hopes to bring Londoners together with industry professionals and teach them essential skills and offer a variety of experiences.

This season 20 young people showcased a look each, with a crowd filled with their family, friends and industry insiders. We saw incredibly talented young designers send out a mixture of textiles and designs, showing off all the skills they have acquired at FAD. A three-dimensional floral embellished dress that echoed spring-time blossom was enhanced by a blush pink tulle skirt, black garments was elevated with bright contrasting detailing and a hyper cropped metallic bronze jacket was also seen sauntering down the catwalk.

The use of diverse models and the vast amount of talent that these young designers had, because of FAD and their pure creativity, was overwhelming and emotional. The award announcing at the end had everyone cheering and applauding. An amazing charity, show and way to  end another amazing Fashion Scout.

Photography by Catherine Baker

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A-JANE | FASHION SCOUT SS19

Alice-Jane, originally from Malaysia has evolved her extensive music background into an abundance of abstract designs with her collections. She studied new music composition at the University of Music Freiburg, Germany where she explored many philosophical concepts and avant-garde forms of art. She has continued to challenge norms within her designs where she is often influenced through themes of fear, inner depth of self, emotions, demons and desire.

Oversized silhouettes with androgynous cuts showcased Alice-Jane’s effortlessly sleek yet minimal designs. Accents of neon piped across all-black jackets elevated the variety of neutral hues and deconstructed shirts demonstrated how wearable the collection is despite having a sharp edge to the design. It was apparent that Alice-Jane explored a variety of techniques whilst still pairing back on the embellishments. Large hoop earrings worn only on one side with long fringing accentuated the ‘work-wear with a twist’ element that was apparent throughout the collection. Dashes of emerald green on mid-length pleated skirts and bright orange ruffled cuffs enhanced the otherwise relaxed style.

Her designs began in 2016 with her ‘Influence’ collection and then the ‘Dissonanz’ which she showcased at Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week in 2017 which was greatly received, a huge achievement in one of the most prestigious fashion events in the country. Alice-Jane aspires to challenge people with her thought-provoking concepts that allow the garments to appeal to a vast audience.

Photography by Catherine Baker

DB BERDAN | FASHION SCOUT SS19

DB Berdan was founded in Istanbul and is for anyone that who enjoys bold statements, vivid colours and sarcastic humour. This quirky brand uses their prints to tell a story and explore their visions surrounding social rights movements. Inspiration taken from street and underground culture demonstrates influences from their London surroundings. These visions and ideologies are displayed through their use of slogan prints and illustrations that can be found throughout their collections.

DB Berdan has consistently supported the LGBTQ community and this season they’ve “made them move to the runway and to take a stand”. This year the brand also collaborated with Reebok to take a powerful political stand against Boris Johnson’s ‘women who wear burkas are bank robbers’ comment, whist still supporting the LGBTQ movement.

Their electric colour palette that featured deconstructed hi-vis jackets with matching neon tracksuit trousers featuring ruched detailing and drawstrings elevated the sports-luxe look. One of the designers spoke about the Reebok garments, “they’ve actually brought us pre-made clothes and we’ve reconstructed and deconstructed them so that pants are sleeves”.

Metallic platform heels paired with holed Reebok sports socks with 90’s inspired grungy hairstyles featuring silver hair clips and pins alluded the rebellious style the brand incorporates.

Photography by Catherine Baker

http://fashionscout.co.uk/news/

FARZANEH. H CHRISTENSEN | FASHION SCOUT SS19

Farzaneh. H Christensen encapsulates delicacy and femininity throughout her designs. Her intricate evening wear ranges from cocktail dresses to full-length gowns, all inspired by her Eastern roots and Western career. Her extensive beaded designs and glamourous styles compliment the carefully selected, sustainable fabrics that are sourced from all over Europe.

FJU TALENTS | FASHION SCOUT SS19

FJU is an annual platform featuring designers from Taiwan. Fu Jen Catholic University’s Textiles and Clothing department sponsors the showcase that supports up and coming designers. Today we saw collections from Ming Jo Hsieh, Kai Ting Chen and Yi Hsuan Wang.

First to show was Hsieh’s collection. Influences of social issues and art within fashion were apparent as loud commercial-style prints created a collage effect on the oversized garments. Non-form silhouettes and unique draping techniques alluded a street-inspired collection that challenged the traditional definitions of beauty.

Struggles of war as inspired by the film “City of Life and Death” focusing on the war Nan-King in 1937 created a foundation to newspaper-print garments in Kai Ting Chen’s collection. Deconstructed military uniforms layered underneath plastic textiles demonstrated more draping practices and pattern making as the music drummed louder and the models paced faster down the runway, illustrating the intensity of the collection.

Yi Hsuan Wang presented an equally as adventurous collection featuring abstract three-dimensional shapes moulded onto dresses with dashes of red and tulle accents. Wang aimed to ‘show everyone their Taiwanese culture’, and blends ‘influences of his childhood with new construction techniques’ through his twist on the traditional facial totem that can be seen throughout his SS19 collection.

FJU is a leading Fashion and Design institute that was founded in 1970. The University aims to equip students with many essential design skills whilst implementing a holistic education. They hope to guide students to develop as individuals and ensure professional progress. Designers to showcase their work are chosen by industry experts and mentored to encapsulate their vision.

Photography by Catherine Baker

http://fashionscout.co.uk/news/